The Summer of Love, which was announced with a lot of drumming last year, hasn’t really taken off, but next summer, Summer of Sex, there’s no stopping it. Get rid of those comfortable and discreet clothes. It can be nude, narrow or transparent.
The poison was in the tail. Or well, the poison… it was probably mostly perplexing. The Miu Miu show was scheduled to take place on the last day of Paris Fashion Week, the last week of Fashion Month. It started with preppy outfits in light blue, beige and gray – only the nude streaks in the lower abdomen were a surprise. The waistband was low and very low. So low that it evoked memories of Alexander McQueen’s 1994 hip-length pants. The pants that started just below the navel and showed a builder dancing the neckline in the back, here’s why the homeless been mentioned.
As the show went on, bellies became bare. Stylish shirts and lambswool jackets were cut roughly at mid-waist height, and the waistbands remained low. When all the surprisingly short skirts that were too short went through, the penny dropped. This was a talk about Britney Spears in a clip from Hit me again baby.
and hit mePerception sunk deep: reviving the ’90s and not fading past seasons. In fact, it caught fire higher than ever.
A week ago, during Milan Fashion Week, Miuccia Prada presented the Prada show with her duo partner Raf Simons. Short skirts were also noted there. Even elegant satin mini skirts with a solemn train, but nevertheless small. Cups were sewn into the thick blouses worn above, and dresses revealed unexpected cutouts and lingerie references. Funny, yes, sensual too, but without being overly sexy.
Later, this focus on sex The common thread of summer 2022 fashion. After all, corsets, visible cups and lace-up bras have already passed at Sportmax and Blumarine in Milan and at Alexander McQueen and Richard Quinn in London. She also appeared frequently on fashion shows in Paris, from Acne to Saint Laurent. The mini skirt was also a frequently spotted item in the City of Lights, as well as in classic homes like Chanel and Dior. And that was just the point. Not from an iceberg, but from an erupting volcano: with young, emerging designers like Ludovic de Saint-Cernin, Ester Manas, KNWLS, Supriya Lele, LaQuan Smith, and Nensi Dojaka, it was without exception narrow, exposed and sheer. As if the ghosts of the late Thierry Mugler and Azzedine Alaïa, godfathers of super sexy fashion from the ’80s and ’90s, have crept into the heads and hands of young fashionistas.
Answer a question: Why focus on the body and why now? It is of course easy to answer. For almost two years now, we’ve hardly ever been partying, spent a lot of time indoors and have few reasons to present ourselves at our most attractive places. The much-anticipated Summer of Love, which was announced in abundance last year, did not take off. But next summer, the summer of sex, there is nothing to stop him. Because we yearn for freedom, openness and closeness. To seduce, seduce, flirt and walk. Because after eight seasons of snug, protective, comfortable yet concealed clothing, the visual hunger for skin (a bad word, but it covers pregnancy well) turns out to be insatiable.
However, however logical that may be, for people who were already adults in their ’90s and zeros, it can feel like a setback, that spoiled display of legs and tummy, and an endless focus on the buttocks and boobs. Old-fashioned, past, misogynistic perhaps even, because sexy from those years – the years when Ivo Niehe could still inquire with impunity about the health of Britney’s breasts – is such a usual disparity men stare Kind of sexy. As women have grown up, courtesy of Phoebe Philo, sisters Olsen and Claire Waight Keeler have filled her coffers for the past 15 years. undervalue They have padded clothes, which aren’t anywhere outright punk, but for a good listener it’s definitely sensual.
But on the other hand, if you look at the current nudity trend from the perspective of the younger generation, you would most likely call these decently dressed adult women old-fashioned. Because Generation Z sees sexy clothes as new, and wears them asEmpowermentFeminist even, and perfectly fit within body positivityThe tendency to be proud of your body and decide for yourself what and how to show the world. The new nudity at the end of the Corona tunnel represents a generational watershed: the online generation that has continued to connect, search and discover via social media during the pandemic, and the analog generation, which has gone lower, withdrew and stared inwardly.
By the way, it was not much different in men’s fashion shows. There, too, plenty of bare breasts, thighs, bellies, arms, and backs were displayed in cropped blouses, sleeveless jackets, sheer tops and ultra-short shorts—Rick Owens, Courig and Saint Laurent were at the forefront of the way. Which raises the question of whether body-positive movement is also gaining a foothold in men.
Final question: Is the older, more conservative generation out of the loop this summer, fashion-wise? No, it’s not, because fashion designers aren’t completely crazy. They realize that there are countless people out there who want decent clothes made of fabrics you can’t see. There are big suits, jackets, long dresses, big skirts – of course there are. There are designers like Gabriella Hearst, the aforementioned sisters Olsen and Dries Van Noten. There are brands like Tod’s, Jil Sander, and Max Mara that still believe in understating, understating, and understating. And in Prada, too, in the store, unlike the podium, the seams will be below the knee. Fashion soup is never so hot when served: there are show wear and shop wear. Because the customer is king and still is king, also in fashion.