Octopus in dough neglect – NRC

My table lady is a tiger, I’m a dog (funny, how accurately our zodiac signs reflect our personalities) so we’ll start with that – the twelve cocktails on the list are named after the zodiacs in the Chinese zodiac. My dog ​​really does come out of the glass, but the fragrance of plum distillate and fresh sage is well balanced with the fresh citruses, spiced animalism, and tight bitterness of double-hop beer.

I continue with the horse: it’s the best negroni I can remember (disclaimer: the better the cocktails, the harder the memory). It is based on gin infused with roasted Szechuan, campari, and vermouth and diluted with oolong tea instead of water. It’s a wonderful negroni in the base, with a creamy texture that is a bit thicker than tea on top and a very light tingling in the taste.

In very few cases, things go wrong – the bunny (litchi, rose, and ginger) evokes strong associations with The Body Shop; And the Pilot Tiger is still a slightly dented beet juice — but let me be clear: We’re bursting out of stockings By Ox’s Cocktails.

Our bartender – a brilliant Italian with many tattoos – explains that most cocktails are already pre-mixed. A little is immediately shaken, mixed only with tea or water. This gives him more time to explain things to our table. There is already a lot to say. Goat for example is “old fashioned” based on two types of whiskey, finished with banana syrup and oolong. The Maker Mark duck fat is soaked for 24 hours, then the mixture is cooled in the freezer to separate the fat from the liquid, which is then passed through a coffee filter: this removes the oil, but preserves the flavour. Japanese whiskey is heated with dried shiitakes. It gives depth, texture, layer and heart.

Chili sauce is disgustingly delicious, deliciously tacky, but works like a train

Ox’s signature, ox, is a collector’s blend: By mixing coconut milk and lemon juice, the proteins coagulate (like making cheese), then the coconut curd forms a natural filter that traps all the impurities and even the color of the rum. The result is a semi-transparent drink, with a light coconut flavor and a predominant pandanese aroma, which is very well captured by the botanical character of Rum Agricole.

In any case. You might almost forget that Ox is a restaurant in the first place. It is hidden in a cellar behind a public portico not far from Rotterdam Central Station. Dark stairs and poorly hidden cables lit in soft red. Graffiti and rough stone walls. Then there are elegant tables set inside and a lovely aquarium behind the bar. Very hip Brooklyn everyone. The menu features Chinese classics in a modern and hip version.

Steamed soft eggs

When booking, you will be asked if you want to eat a la carte or the chef’s menu, but this is just a reference. Allows to switch. The chef’s menu (consisting of à la carte dishes) can be complementary to your heart’s content. Completely vegan is also possible. All in trouble. The menu begins with steamed tender eggs, flavored with rich egg spice umami – millennium egg mimosa, topped with grated egg yolk – served in an egg. good idea. Ceviche Corvina is cooked well, but soon it turns out that the conscious and well-thought-out choice of the chef: the structure of the meat and the bite. From the fish that turns off-white to the salty and fleshy umami solids to the fermented olive leaves (what a great find!), little cubes of fresh cucumber and green onions keep it light. Good dish.

Octopus in five spices is wonderfully tender. The bland batter—it’s more of a neglect of the dough than a jacket of dough—gives a little bit more texture. Garnish is a delicious old-fashioned skillet made with sliced ​​sweet peppers and peeled onions. The sweet and chili pineapple salsa is wickedly delicious, deliciously hearty, but works like a train with the aromatic, semi-fruity fat of iberico-babi pangang. That same enchanted fat makes soy mai with Argentinean shrimp nearly empty in your mouth. Here again, it appears to have been consciously chosen to allow a sense of taste to dominate the sturdier, more bouncy traditional chassis that specific dim sum should contain.

There are also a few things to criticize about the food: The espuma paprika lies rather loosely on top of the octopus. Just like some “mandatory potato chips” with other dishes (puffed rice? It’s 2022!). Special chili oil is meaningless. Fried garlic on bami just bitter. White rice is lifeless, both in terms of taste and structure. improvement points.

What’s worse is that the chef uses his own doughGame Not appropriate. The wonton casings are hard, the rice casing is very thick and a bit mushy. The pasta is stiff and sluggish, lacking elasticity and pungent A good Chinese noodles. The same noodles are a great example of the game between Sichuan pepper and chili, which characterizes the cuisine of the Chinese province of Sichuan: the narcotic qualities of Sichuan pepper ensure that the heat of the chili can be tolerated. It’s a delightful golden cage: you have to keep eating or you’ll die. Aside from meat pies and noodles, the bull is contemporary, sexy, and bold.

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